The brand is commemorating its 130th anniversary with a series of lyrical short films titled A Love Letter to the Sea. A number of special-edition jewelry designs incorporating akoya, South Sea, and conch pearls alongside marine-blue sapphires have been released to celebrate Mikimoto’s relation with the sea.

Looking ahead, the brand announced in a press release that its 130th anniversary initiatives also will include the continuation of its efforts to promote sustainable pearl farming while preserving biodiversity and ecosystems.

A check-in with Mikimoto seemed in order as the company reaches the milestone. And for this, JCK connected with Kentaro Nishimura, chief operating officer of Mikimoto America, to discuss the brand’s trajectory across these many years, with a particular emphasis on the here and now. Next week in Paris, Mikimoto plans to unveil its latest high jewelry collection.

Mikimoto is a great example of a luxury brand that has managed to stay current with the times even though pearls, by definition, are classic, a wardrobe staple. How have you been able to achieve this?

While pearls are a mainstay of fashion, we’ve evolved our pearl jewelry styles over the years, introducing genderless and more youthful styles that appeal to a wider audience.

We’ve done this through like-minded partnerships and fashion-forward collections, such as Comme des Garçons, and Passionoir, which not only demonstrate our ability to innovate and remain at the forefront of jewelry style, but also our versatility and appeal to a wide range of audiences. Mikimoto seeks to maintain the importance and relevance of pearls regardless of age and gender through fine jewelry that emphasizes the beauty of pearls [while] challenging and pushing boundaries.

Another example might be this spring’s V Code collection, which was a standout from your Las Vegas Jewelry Week presentation.

Yes, building on Mikimoto’s past collections designed with a genderless and ageless style in mind, V Code can be worn by anyone for any occasion. These new pieces are a departure from classic and rounded compositions, and represent strength and vitality. They demonstrates Mikimoto’s continued commitment to innovation, unparalleled craftsmanship and artistry, while appealing to the current influence of social culture.

In 130 years, is there a decade that stands out to you as the heyday for Mikimoto, its finest hour? 

This year certainly stands out, as we kicked off the year at New York Fashion Week, with our pearls adorning the models who walked Marc Jacobs’ spring 2023 show. Just before the Met Gala in May we hosted a 130th anniversary celebration for friends of the brand at Central Park Towers, which was attended by stars like Katie Holmes, Janelle Monáe, Amber Valetta, and Brooklyn and Nicole Beckham; at the actual event, Kerry Washington, Ashley Graham, Ashley Park, Allison Williams, Brooklyn Beckham, and [NBA player] Shai Gilgeous-Alexander were seen wearing Mikimoto pearls. We are continuing this momentum with more new product launches and digital and in-person brand moments.

Pearls are having a moment with men! How is what’s happening in the culture influenced Mikimoto’s evolution as a brand? 

Men have been wearing pearls for centuries, but the trend as we know it today began before the pandemic and first appeared on the fashion runways. At Mikimoto, we don’t assign genders to our jewelry pieces because historically, classic pearl strands were universal. Mikimoto has garnered enormous attention from male consumers and received 14 times more dressing requests from notable male celebrities over the past two years, including Academy Award winner Questlove, A$AP Rocky, Lewis Hamilton, and more.

Do you have a favorite piece from the 130th anniversary releases? What is special about it?

My favorite piece is the conch and akoya cultured pearl necklace with diamonds in 18k white gold. It’s a perfect example of timeless elegance—fit for royalty thousands of years ago or a high-fashion runway today. One of the world’s most unique and luxurious gems, conch pearls are produced naturally by the queen conch mollusk. They are an example of the extreme rarity and uniqueness that Mikimoto offers, and even more stunning surrounded by our carefully curated akoya pearls.

Top: Ocean Collection white South Sea cultured pearl necklace with sapphire rondelles in 18k white gold, $210,000

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It doesn’t hurt that pearls are having a renaissance like no other. (It should go without saying that we’re talking almost exclusively about the cultured variety.) For at least the past three years, the gems—be they freshwater or saltwater, akoya, Tahitian or South Seas—have been the belles of the jewelry ball.

Pair them with diamonds for a blingtastic look, and they are the epitome of sophistication. Set them in yellow gold, however, and something funny happens: Pearls assume the warmth of the precious metal, and with it, its casual elegance.

That’s the spirit that guided us in curating the pearl jewels featured above and below. Casual and elegant, if occasionally fierce, these pearls, especially when complemented by moonstones, are perfect for June babies—and just about everyone else.

Top: Ear pin in 18k gold with Tahitian pearls, $2,730; Nomis

Bibi van der Velden is a reliable source for adventurous pearl pieces, and the designer’s latest jewels are no exception, utilizing the gem to its fullest potential as it represents the place of its origin—the sea.

Waves, the newest collection from van der Velden, takes inspiration from the ocean and its regenerative properties, and the 30 different pieces—yes, 30!—prominently feature pearls, other seaworthy gems like aquamarine and quartz, and diamonds decorating Bibi’s expertly sculpted gold.

The different Waves pieces range from sculptural interpretations of waves and rock pools to iconic mermaid tails in a variety of forms. Of course, you can’t hear “mermaid” without thinking of the new Disney film that just hit theaters, so the timing on the collection has pop culture resonance, too.

We had a few questions for van der Velden on the release of Waves, which debuted at last week’s Couture jewelry show in Las Vegas.

What inspired your new collection? 

My collection stems from my love of the ocean and surfing every day. I live by the sea in Portugal with my husband, kids, and dogs. I have been working on this collection for over two years, since I moved the family from Amsterdam just before COVID to beautiful and wild peninsular coastline of Portugal. The sea and nature, with a touch of the wilderness of my beach in Portugal, and the fairy tales and legends of old sea stories are blended into Waves.

A 30-piece collection is a big one! Do you have a favorite? 

My favorite piece is the big Crashing Waves necklace [pictured at top]. The incredible baroque pearl took me ages to source, and I probably won’t be able to find another quite like it! The way the gold dolphins jump joyfully around the gold and diamond waves that dance around the wearer’s neck. It is a piece in the collection that takes the raw beauty of the sea, and as a sculptor I have tried to capture that moment when you catch a wave and nature engulfs your soul as a wearable piece of art.

What are your thoughts on the “mermaidcore” trend sweeping fashion?

Fashion always picks up on global and cultural news for inspiration. So with the combination of climate change being high on the international news agenda, and on the arts side, Disney re-creating the classic The Little Mermaid with the stunning Halle Bailey as Ariel, of course the fashion world created mermaidcore!

Top: Crashing Waves necklace in 18k white and rose gold with South Sea baroque pearl, olive green enamel, and diamonds, $90,000; Bibi van der Velden

Peach grew in up poor, one of eight siblings, in Benton County, Tenn. As a child, he would help his father harvest shells and natural pearls from the Tennessee River.

“James experienced the challenges of limited resources firsthand,” said an online obit. “These circumstances instilled in him a profound understanding of the value of hard work and perseverance. Through unwavering determination, James diligently worked his way through college, taking on the humble task of washing dishes to fund his education.”

When Peach graduated from Murray State University in 1967, he was the first in his family to earn a college degree. He also served for six years in the Army National Guard.

In the 1970s, he founded the American Shell Company, which became a leading supplier to the Japanese cultured pearl industry. He later founded the United States Pearl Company, which at one point was one of the largest pearl sellers in America.

“I buy my pearls almost exclusively from James Peach from the United States Pearl Company,” said designer Naomi Sarna in 2016. “He really has an eye for unusual pieces.”

In 2015, JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky called him a “giant in the American pearling industry.”

Peach was also active in local politics, both behind the scenes and as a representative in the Tennessee state assembly, where he served from 1995 to 1996.

During his later years, Peach enjoyed visiting thrift stores and enjoying the beauty of the Kentucky Lake.

“It was not uncommon to find him humming or deeply immersed in the soul-stirring melodies of gospel music, which resonated deeply within his heart,” the obit said.

Peach is survived by Venetia, his wife of 52 years; children James Jr., Vincent, and Angela, all of whom have worked in the pearl industry; five grandchildren; three brothers; and a sister.

(Photo from Legacy.com)

Symbolizing love, immortality, and fidelity, ivy leaf was often used in Victorian and Edwardian jewels. Pearls that represent wisdom and protection strengthen the meaning of this Victorian-era bracelet.

It doesn’t get much more romantic than this Victorian keepsake depicting two connected hearts. And as a brooch, this jewel feels even more sentimental worn over the heart.

William Ruser, known as the jeweler to stars during Hollywood’s golden age, handmade this ring with yellow gold wrapping around a freshwater pearl. It’s truly one of a kind.

David Webb isn’t afraid to make a statement—and that’s certainly the case with this 20th-century necklace with oversize gold links and diamond-encircled pearls.

Lang Antiques put it best when describing this turn-of-the-century piece on its website: “Fine wine doesn’t grow on trees—it comes from leafy vines with succulent grapes such as is artfully depicted in this charming grapevine brooch.”

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The Edmonton, Alberta, jewelry company created the limited-edition bracelet from two of its popular styles: a freshwater pearl bracelet and the Layla paper-clip chain. The Asian Heritage Hope bracelet combines two different looks in one unique, on-trend piece, says Chau Lui, co-owner of Paris Jewellers.

Paris Jewellers will donate 100% of the net proceeds from the bracelet to the Asian Solidarity Fund and Stop AAPI Hate, two nonprofits fighting intolerance, prejudice, and injustice. (The Asian Solidarity Fund is Canadian; Stop AAPI Hate is based in the States.)

“Jewelry holds a moment in time,” ” Lui says. “It makes us feel or remember something every time you put it on. Our hope is that this bracelet lets people feel beautiful but also that they’ve had an impact and they’ve made a difference.”

Asian Heritage Hope debuts online May 12. Paris Jewellers focuses on May for the introduction, as it is Asian American and Pacific Islander (AAPI) Heritage Month, which recognizes the contributions and influence of Asian and Pacific Islander Americans to the history, culture, and achievements of the United States. The company has raised more than $20,000 for nonprofit organizations on previous fund-raising jewelry projects, Lui says.

After Lui’s mom, Thu Luong, immigrated to Canada from Vietnam, one of her first jobs in her new country was as a goldsmith, and she had to use a Vietnamese-English dictionary to communicate with customers. The family opened its first jewelry store in 1987, and the company is now co-owned by Lui and her sister, Trang Wong.

“If my mom could overcome those kinds of challenges in terms of language and learning a new culture, we know as a family we can overcome anything,” Lui says.

The Heritage Hope bracelet’s pearls represent Thu, who loves that gem, as well as Lui’s daughter Asla, who has a birthday in June (pearl is June’s birthstone). The paper-clip chain is named after Lui’s other daughter, Layla, so the final piece blends two generations.

“We love the style. It’s timeless turned trendy,” Lui says. “We are mindful of creating jewelry that you can wear every single day, whether you want to dress up or dress down.… The pearl and the paper-clip chain could not be more different, but they come together so beautifully.”

Top: As part of its fund-raising jewelry collection, Paris Jewellers is debuting the Asian Heritage Hope bracelet on May 12. Money raised from its sale will go to groups that support Asian Americans and Canadians. (Photos courtesy of Paris Jewellers)

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Stocking up on all things new gives you a reason to invite your clients to the store, and gives your clients a reason to get excited. It encourages you to get up to speed on trends, and to retire pieces past their prime.

To whet your appetite, we’ve highlighted three designer jewelry brands that have all introduced new collections this season. Ready, set, stock!

Arizona and Crystalline by Jia Jia

In 2017, Jia-Jia Zhu, a former fashion buyer at Bergdorf Goodman, decamped to Bali to spend a year practicing yoga, meditating, and working with crystals.

“During one of my meditations, I unlocked my third eye and started seeing incredible colors and visions,” Zhu tells JCK. “I had this calling to go to Tucson to learn more about crystals.”

At the gem shows, she befriended a crystal seller who gifted her a tray of clear quartz crystals that formed the basis of her Jia Jia collection of 14k gold and crystal jewelry, introduced in 2020.

“Being a fashion jewelry buyer at Bergdorf, I never saw crystal jewelry that resonated with me,” says Zhu. “This was my opportunity to create something that felt good to me. What we do is all one of a kind. We don’t use glue or epoxy. They groove each crystal based on its shape and custom hand-set each piece with gold and diamonds.”

Handcrafted in New York City, the brand recently introduced new styles in its bestselling Arizona and Crystalline collections, including crystals featuring gem-set bars with colored stone accents.

Empreinte Animale by Lalique

For most jewelers, the name Lalique conjures the delicate, naturalistic creations of the Art Nouveau master René Lalique. This spring, the jewelry brand that carries his name is introducing a collection inspired by the creatures of the jungle, incorporating chain-link styles that feature feather, fur, and scale motifs for an intriguing hint of texture.

Diamond Dipped, Sable Doré, and Sable Noir High Deco by Tejen

Tejen recently updated its collection of bold, sculptural jewelry with a handful of new pieces featuring black pearls and opals and generous heaps of diamonds. The Diamond Dipped range, for example, pairs high-polish Fairmined gold with sizable white diamonds for a gleaming day-to-night look, while the newest pieces in the Sable collection highlight the perennially-in-style chicness of gemstone beads in unusual 18k gold settings (exhibit A: the tangled pair of High Deco opal drops below).

Top: Arizona Rainbow Sapphire Crystal Charm necklace in 14k gold, $1,400; Jia Jia

While peak season is over, cherry blossoms can be found all around the area still blooming their sweet shade of pink, while other flowering trees—magnolia, dogwood, jacaranda—echo their beauty in shades of purple, pink, and white.

It’s a marvelous treat for the eyes (not as much for the allergy-prone nose) and puts a spring in the step of all who see it. Much like this transitional season, though, the blossoms are all too fleeting, which is why we adore jewelry that commemorates them.

No brand does that better than Mikimoto, whose cherry blossom jewels have a long history. I only recently learned that a Cherry Blossom Queen is crowned at the close of D.C.’s annual festival each year with a ceremonial pearl crown by Mikimoto, gifted to the U.S. in 1957. (How did I, a jewelry editor, live in Washington for almost 10 years and not know that?!)

Mikimoto updates the cherry blossom motif in its newest offerings, with the brand’s signature pearls anchoring necklaces, earrings, bracelets, and rings. I’m partial to these pretty earrings, with their scalloped lines of rose gold sparkling daintily with diamonds. They’re modern and appear youthful but attain the right mix of classic and on-trend, especially given our current fascination with fresh pearls. And they’re worthy of bequeathing to the next generation.

“The magnificently full and blushed floral presentation has been appreciated throughout centuries and across cultures,” said a statement from the brand. “Mikimoto’s ode to these beauties and their significance in Japanese culture can be seen throughout their stunning and delicate cherry blossom collection.”

Top: Cherry blossom earrings in 18k pink gold with 6 mm Akoya cultured pearls and 0.05 ct. t.w. diamonds, $2,500; Mikimoto

That’s the question we asked a number of jewelry designers and jewelry PR consultants, because who could possibly know better than people who not only live across the pond, but dedicate their professions to jewelry as well?

The most common answer, as even a jewelry novice might have supposed: the brooch.

While the first documented metal brooches date back to the Bronze Age, there are a number of moments in the history of the brooch that involve the British Royal Family in one way or another, from Queen Victoria’s mourning and cameo brooches to the more recent pieces worn by the late Queen Elizabeth II.

On the topic of the royal family and jewelry, pearls may come to mind as well.

“For me, pearl jewelry has always felt quintessentially British,” says British designer Kitty Joyas. “From adorning the necks of British Monarchy for centuries to the use of pearl jewelry as the go-to for British countryside fashion, pearls feel synonymous with British culture in many ways. I love working with pearls, but crafting with them through a modern lens using contemporary forms, and injecting some of my other principal influences.”

If you ask Cameron Tewson, PR consultant for Cameron Tewson PR, you’ll get a very modern answer, maybe one that’s poised to be a new classic: lab-grown gems.

“I think the U.K. market is more open-minded and available to use both lab-grown diamonds and lab-grown colored gemstones,” says Cameron Tewson. “I equally believe it lends itself well to savvy consumers who are interested in investing in great jewelry at affordable prices. The British consumer is also knowledgeable when it comes to purchasing and probably over the past few years more so have become deeply interested in the ethics and environmental changes that their purchases can change and pave the way with.”

This sounds pretty familiar to the American consumer as well, but Tewson tells JCK he believes the U.S. is more focused on lab-grown diamonds in bridal and wedding jewelry rather than everyday fashion jewelry. While that’s subjective, there are many brands out of the U.K. that have built their businesses solely on lab-grown diamond fashion jewelry, as opposed to other brands we know that started with natural diamonds, and have either switched to lab-grown or started offering their customers the choice.

Much like in the U.S., our community across the pond sees a wide variety of different styles and trends dominating their market—it’s a small world, after all. But history and tradition still dictate some of the most classic styles in demand, with an eye on the future of jewelry as well.

Top: Drop earrings in 14k yellow gold with freshwater pearls and white and gray diamonds, £1,480 ($1,760); Ruth Tomlinson

Lucci has worn many hats throughout her career and is currently focused on her fitness brand. If you’ve ever seen her in interviews or on the home-shopping networks that sell her products, she’s vivacious and genuinely warm and well-meaning. These qualities make her a natural fit to be an American Heart Association ambassador.

But there’s more to it than that. In 2018 Lucci underwent emergency heart surgery due to two blocked arteries. Recognizing the signs of an impending heart attack saved her life; a second incident in 2022 also resulted in surgery. Today she’s committed to raising awareness about cardiovascular health, especially among women, even lobbying on Capitol Hill for congressional support of policies that could address the disease, which remains the leading cause of death the U.S

Now, as part of her ongoing heart health activism, she’s partnered with Tiary, an online jewelry brand specializing in custom fine jewelry, on a series of design projects, the first of which launched this month in honor of Women’s Heart Health Month. The two pendants are pictured below; 25% of the purchase price will help fund the American Heart Association’s education and research efforts.

“I designed the necklace out of a desire to shine a new light on fundraising for the American Heart Association because of all they do,” Lucci tells JCK. “That was on my mind during this collaboration because AHA gave me the opportunity to get my message out and to tell my story in the hopes that even just one woman might hear it and get to the doctor if they had symptoms.

“I think the Empower Your Heart necklace is certainly appropriate for Mother’s Day or Valentine’s Day or a gift from you to someone you love, like your mom or your best friend. And it also can be a gift to celebrate your wins, it can be a gift of self-love, there are many different ways to look at it. And I just think that this first necklace really is appropriate for all of those occasions, because at its core it’s about love in all its forms.”

Lucci confirmed that the Tiary collaboration will include future pieces but couldn’t reveal the specifics just yet. What she did reveal: her great love of fine jewelry and some favorite pieces she’s acquired over the years, plus some tidbits from her time on All My Children. Our conversation, ahead.

The Tiary collaboration is not your first foray into jewelry design. If I remember correctly, you had a collection on HSN.

Yes, the jewelry line was something I was doing on HSN for several years. That was a different kind of collaboration, where I really had a chance to explore the world of faux and costume jewelry, which was great. We ran the gamut, offering everything from glamorous to everyday pieces, and that was really a great a learning experience for me. A lot of that jewelry was being manufactured in Rhode Island at the time, and I was very happy about that as well. The jewelry was definitely a reference to the Erica Kane character, and that made it fun for me and fun for the audience. But also, truly, Erica and I had very similar taste. The only difference was that Erica would wear the Dolce & Gabbana and fabulous going-out earrings just answering the door during the day at her house or going into a business meeting or going on an airplane.

Would you describe yourself as a “jewelry person”?

I did not begin as a jewelry person, I evolved into a jewelry person. I think maybe I inherited this from my mother, who was very much a jewelry person. Not that we’re talking about any enormously expensive pieces, but my mother had great taste. And if we were walking on Worth Avenue in Palm Beach—where you cannot take two steps without seeing some of the best jewelry in the world—we could not possibly pass a jewelry store without her stopping to look and tell me her opinions. It was basically a lot of oohing and aaahing. I have a couple of her pieces that make me so happy. I have a beautiful pearl necklace from her—pearls on a wire, not her ordinary pearls but more of a design-forward element of her jewelry wardrobe—and there are matching earrings. I just discovered that I have them, and I can’t wait to wear them.

Besides these wonderful pearls, what are some other treasured items in your personal collection?

It’s funny because my husband [Helmut Huber, who died in 2022, after 52 years of marriage] also had wonderful taste, and I am very, very lucky to have such beautiful pieces from him. One is a double strand of opera-length pearls with a diamond clasp. And what was really very special about not only the necklace, and the thought and love that went into giving it to me, was the sense of joy he put into the presentation. It was Valentine’s Day. I had mentioned to him earlier that I was looking at some pearls, and that I love pearls, and he didn’t seem very interested. And then we were sitting at breakfast on Valentine’s Day morning and out from under the table, he just pulled out this double strand of opera-length pearls. It just took my breath away. He was someone who had a big presence; he was very fun and very funny, so this was very him. And actually these pearls meant so much to us that at one point we had an interior decorator and a painter come and do some trompe l’oeil work in the foyer of our house—by the window on the landing of the staircase, she painted a bird flying with a double strand of pearls in its beak. And it’s still there.

There’s another piece that comes to mind. As I said, my husband was very generous to me and would often take me to Fred Leighton for special occasions. This one year we were in Fred Leighton and we were looking at different things. I knew how lucky I was, but I didn’t really know what I would want to have. And this particular time, Mr. Leighton brought out what is still one of my most beautiful and cherished pieces of jewelry: a diamond pendant with a ruby in the center, from the 1930s and from Paris. And the marquise diamonds are en tremblant so they have movement. It’s delicate, and it’s on a very delicate chain that also has little diamonds interspersed. It’s very beautiful, and that whole memory is very special to me.

What pieces do you wear every day?

I wear a Cartier Tank Française and a beautiful rose gold link bracelet from the Tiffany HardWear collection. It was a Valentine’s Day gift I received two years ago, again from my husband. I’ve purchased things for myself over the years, but nothing means more to me than the jewels my husband gave me.

What jewelry designers do you collect and covet?

I’ve learned over the course of time that the pieces that hold the most value are the pieces that are signed. I happen to love Van Cleef—who wouldn’t?—and Cartier.

Has your jewelry style evolved over the years?

Oh, for sure. And certainly this was the case with Erica Kane. I mean, in the 1980s I could not get enough jewelry on me or enough stuff, bells and whistles of all kinds. I don’t know how they got it all in one frame. The earrings could not be big enough or long enough. I remember the 1970s being very “back to the earth”—suede cords and beads—and then the 1980s, it was so just so big. I did a cover of TV Guide and those earrings are so big and so long that you hardly see the person! The 1990s got very, very delicate, and I think that was the road back to refinement. But there was also an absence of jewelry, and I remember thinking, “Oh, women are going to get really fed up with this pretty quickly. You’re going to want to wear your jewelry!”

Is there a big Erica Kane jewelry moment that you can still recall from your many years of playing her?

No, I don’t remember anything like that. But what I will tell you is that I started playing Erica as a 15-year-old high school girl [in 1970], when Erica was going to New York and wanting to be a model and all of that. And of course her character is very willful and self-involved, so I understand why the costume designer wanted to put all this jewelry on her. But I remember saying, “Please don’t make her all about jewelry. This is a character who is really self-indulgent, but she’s not a poodle. She’s really spunky and capable, and let’s focus on those aspects of her rather than the jewelry.” And jewelry is fabulous. But it is meant to make you feel good and maybe make you feel more beautiful. But when it was excessive, it just looked silly to me. And I didn’t want that for my character.

All of my friends and family are going to be so jealous that I just spent my morning talking to you about jewelry.

Thank you. Say hi to them for me, will you?

Top: Susan Lucci during her appearance on Good Day New York earlier this month as part of a publicity campaign to help raise awareness for Women’s Heart Health Month. In addition to the Tiary pendant she co-designed with the brand, she wears the Cartier Tank Française watch and Tiffany & Co. bracelet that are mentioned in the interview. (Photo: Michael Simon)

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